“In 80 birding tours to more than 100 countries, that was definitely the best day of birding I have ever had in my life!’ This unequivocal statement was recently made to me by a well traveled American birder after a day trip up Sani Pass. What a way to sum up what is undoubtedly one of the world’s greatest birding sites and certainly my favorite in southern Africa. Albeit currently a rugged 4×4-only road, Sani Pass is the most accessible route from KwaZulu-Natal into the Mountain Kingdom of Lesotho. The actual pass is a seven-kilometre section between the two nations’ border-control points, characterized by dramatic switch-backs on its very steepest section. It lies within the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park which has been recognized as a UNESCO Cultural and Natural World Heritage Site.
A summer view of the base of Sani Pass, the road winds its way up the Great Drakensberg Escarpment in a series of s-bends that can be seen in the upper middle section of the image. Photo by Adam Riley
However, the great birding experience that is Sani starts lower down. From the quaint historic village of Himeville, the Sani road winds through green pastures and grasslands dotted with lakes and wetlands. Here, thousands of Amur Falcons hunt for insects during the southern summer, Wattled Cranes and Denham’s Bustards may be seen, impressive Long-tailed Widowbirds display over the grasslands and the waterbodies are a haven to many hundreds of waterbirds, including Maccoa and White-backed Ducks. Both species of southern African otters are also regularly encountered (Cape Clawless and Spot-necked.)
As you enter the rockier Protea-dominated zone, the avifauna changes and Malachite Sunbirds buzz around their favorite flowers, while the harsh calls of Gurney’s Sugarbird (one of only two species of Sugarbirds, a family endemic to southern Africa) are usually the first indication of the presence of these special birds. Buff-streaked Chats and Cape Rock-Thrushes sing from boulder tops, and family huddles of Ground Woodpeckers emit their rather gull-like shrieks.
Thicker riverine bushes and Ouhout (Leucosidia) stands contribute an element of mistbelt forest birding and rewards may include Olive Woodpecker and several endemics: Greater Double-collared Sunbird, Barratt’s Warbler, Swee Waxbill and the sought-after Bush Blackcap.
As you begin the winding drive up the pass itself, the habitat rapidly changes to the dry karroid vegetation that characterizes the colder high Drakensberg plateau. Drakensberg Prinias are replaced by their Karoo cousins and dainty Fairy Flycatchers and Layard’s Tit-Babblers flit about. Careful scanning of the distant slopes may reveal a variety of antelope including the mighty Eland or the more delicate Mountain Reedbuck and Gray Rhebok.
The Drakensberg escarpment forms the boundary between the closely related Drakensberg and Karoo Prinias with the former occurring at the bottom of the pass, the latter (photo above by Adam Riley) at the top of the pass and integrades between the two species on the pass.
The rocky sections harbor Gray Tits, Cape Bunting and the localized Drakensberg Siskin; African Rock Pipit may be tracked down if one is attuned to its lovely tremulous song; and here my personal favourite, the cheerful, energetic Drakensberg Rockjumper (feature image at the top of this blogpost), also makes its home. Even on a dull, cold day these bouncy balls of colorful feathers are sure to warm the cockles of any birder’s heart. If that doesn’t do it, a glass of Glühwein at the Sani Top pub will brace you for birding the escarpment above the pass. Flocks of dazzling Southern Bald Ibis can reach impressive numbers, both Cape Vulture and the elegant Bearded Vulture (Lammergeier) can be seen on sunny days, and the enigmatic Mountain Pipit occurs during summer. Other specials include Large-billed Lark, Gray-winged Francolin, Sentinel Rock-Thrush, Sickle-winged Chat, Yellow Canary (at the very eastern edge of its range) and, if you are very lucky, a roosting Cape Eagle-Owl. Here one can also find pairs of very cute Sloggett’s Ice Rats, another member of Sani’s distinct fauna.
The threatened Bearded Vulture or Lammergeier is usually seen on sunny days soaring above Sani Pass. The final southern African stronghold of this species is the high Drakensberg mountains in Lesotho. Image by Adam Riley
The Mountain Pipit is one of Africa’s least known birds, appearing annually in the Sani Pass environs every summer and pretty much disappearing in winter. Image by Adam Riley (note the typical karroid vegetation of the plateau above Sani Pass)
However, it’s not just the birding that makes a trip up Sani Pass such a memorable experience. It’s the combination of dramatic, world-class scenery, wide-open vistas, the silence of the high Drakensberg, stunning wildflower displays, blanket-clad Basothos living their lives little touched by the modern world and, ultimately, the sense of being away from it all.