There is an incredible diversity in birders, as unique and interesting as birds themselves. Some are trying to see as many birds as possible; some are trying to attract certain birds to their gardens; some are seeking to find all the family groups…to name just a few dissections of hobbyists. I fall in the first category, trying to see as many birds in my life as possible…but rather than going for the bulk numbers, I have been attracted to seeking out the lesser-known and rarely seen, as well as underbirded places. That is what drew me to Ouvea.
We were already heading to New Caledonia for the Kagu and had a few days on our own before an arrangement with our guide. Screwing around on eBird, I stumbled upon the Ouvea Parakeet, which seemed like fate. At the time of finding it, there were fewer than 60 eBird records of the species, as it is isolated to an island that does not have a significant tourist draw. So, we added that to our itinerary. Travel planning was a little tricky, as it is pretty off the beaten path. The island has two hotels and half a dozen tribal homestays. We reserved a homestay via email at Beauvoisin, which was in the heart of Ouvea Parakeet territory and had TripAdvisor reviews that mentioned the bird.
A few weeks later, we stepped off the AirCalin plane, a 40-minute flight from Noumea, New Caledonia, onto the tropical hideaway of Ouvea. Our homestay was on the north end of the island, about a 30-minute drive away. The island is about thirty miles long and one mile wide, with very little development. Beauvoisin is a homestead with several thatched huts for guests, an outdoor, covered dining area, and a shared bathroom. Mark was a friendly and helpful host and a heck of a chef.
After arriving at 4:00 pm and settling in, we set out in search of our target: the Ouvea Parakeet. Along the road was a skittish Pacific Emerald Dove that took off when it noticed us, Satin Swiftlets overhead, and Gray-eared Honeyeaters in the trees. We wandered down the path, looking in the trees for the parakeet, and were surprised to find two at waist height right behind us, feeding on flowers. Could it be any easier?? Over the next day, we were on Ouvea, and we saw the parakeet several times in the same area. Each time they were within five feet of the ground, feeding on flowers. We accidentally spooked them on occasion, and they would squawk and fly back further from the road.
While on the island, a storm blew through with high winds and pelting rain. Not great for birding – but quality seawatching. We went down to Pointe de Mouly, the southernmost point, which had a great overlook atop the volcanic rock outcroppings, from which we could pick out Short-tailed Shearwaters and a few Tahiti Petrels. A Lesser Frigatebird soared overhead.
One of the most interesting sights on the island is the Mouli Bridge, which connects the two islands; previously, the span would require a ferry. One side of the bridge gives you views of Lekiny Cliffs, and the other direction is dreamy, with blue waters and a beach of Great Crested and Black-naped Terns. A Pacific Reef-Heron fished in the shallow waters below.
The weather was much better the next day, but still a little windy. So, we explored some more before our afternoon flight out. The terns were still at the bridge, and we also added Brown Goshawk, Sacred Kingfisher, and Melanesian Flycatcher sallying for bugs. The seabirds were still flying out past the breakers, riding the wind.
I even had a chance to swim in those clear, warm waters and got a gnarly sunburn after just a few minutes. We arrived at the airport way too early, and we were the only ones there, save for a few Pacific Golden-Plovers on the runway; it was not even opened and staffed yet. We waved goodbye to the tropical hideaway and Ouvea Parakeets as we headed off for the Kagu. Palm trees swaying in the breeze, bright blue waters, and friendly people will always live in my memory from this trip.
If you want to learn more about this trip, please check out our recent podcast episode about it.
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