In an earlier post, I described my thoughts on a Big Year Costa Rica. I kept these thoughts to myself without realising super-natural beings eavesdrop on one’s thoughts. Justice for my bad thoughts would be elaborate, far-fetched and overkill, as these punishments usually are (Zeus got an eagle to eternally punish Prometheus for playing with matches, harsh!). Oblivious of any such plot, I followed our Costa Rican guide Mercedes to CATIE, the Tropical Agricultural Research and Higher Education Center, located on the edge of the town of Turrialba. The targets were Boat-billed Heron, Northern Jacana, and Green Ibis. We stopped at the entrance gate, paid the fee and spotted a nest of Collared Aracari. Good start, keeping me blissfully unaware of any misfortune laying ahead in my future.
The CATIE excursion consists of two parts: the grounds and the pond with its large heronry. Whereas our targets were all at the pond, we thoroughly enjoyed just getting there. The CATIE grounds are vast and covered with tropical agriculture, secondary forest and even some patches of primary forest. The diversity of the landscape translated into a diverse list. The more open areas for example had Crested Caracara, Giant Cowbird, and the ubiquitous Great-tailed Grackle and Great Kiskadee. American Black Vulture, Turkey Vulture and Northern Rough-winged Swallow owned the skies. It seemed the vultures were particularly plentiful, an omen perhaps? A Russet-naped Wood-rail quickly distracted us from any premonitions.
The woods were great. We saw woodcreepers (Northern Plain Xenops, Northern Barred-Woodcreeper), tyrants (Boat-billed Flycatcher, Grey-capped Flycatcher, Mistletoe Tyrannulet, Social Flycatcher, Yellow-olive Flatbill), becards and tityras (Masked Tityra, Cinnamon Becard and White-winged Becard), and tanagers and assorted relations (Blue-grey Tanager, Blue Dacnis, Golden-hooded Tanager, Scarlet-rumped Tanager, Palm Tanager, Green Honeycreeper). A nesting Common Tody-Flycatcher stole the show: its nest right next to the footpath where hundreds of ravenous students would pass on their way to the canteen.
We arrived at the pond and the pond delivered. Anhinga, Black-crowned Night Heron, Great White Egret, Green Ibis, Northern Jacana, and Western Cattle-Egret were breeding in the trees or browsing for food nearby. For the Boat-billed Heron we needed to semi-crawl and stoop in the bamboo bushes around the pond. It was gloomy and dark, but metaphysical dark clouds were also gathering as I peeked through the vegetation. It was already no longer a question if punishment would be meted out but how…
The Boat-billed Herons showed themselves well. There were recently fledged young and while shy, it was not difficult to get a good look at their weird beaks. Mercedes called me over to get a better look at the herons and perhaps take a good picture of the caimans that were floating under the nest waiting for an unfortunate chick. I took care not to step on the obviously very slippery muddy patches as a slip into the pond would bring me too close for comfort with the crocodilians. However, the trap had been laid and my fate had been sealed long before. The dry leaves I stepped on were on top of an extremely slippery patch and as in slow motion I lost my balance and inexorably slid into the caiman-infested pond. Mercedes grabbed my arm and avoided total immersion, but here I lay, within striking distance of the reptilian predators. I considered myself chastised.
Collared Aracari from the 10000birds archive. All other photographs by Brad Nelson.
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